These are the IHI turbos I have heard of on Mazda 323's.
VJ-6 Very early '85 - '86 BFMR Japanese Imports
VJ-12 Early '86 BFMR Japanese Imports
VJ-13 '86 - '87 BFMR Japanese Imports
VJ-14 American BF Model 323GTX
VJ-16 Upgrade turbo available in the US
VJ-17 Group A turbo used in the WRC
VJ-20 BG Model 323 GTX (1800cc) Jap Imports
VJ-23 323 GTR
2nd hand turbo test...
give the blades a spin through the inducer and make sure a. they spin freely < they should make a couple rotations before stoping and shouldnt bind or make funny noises> and make sure there is very little in and out and side to side/up and down play in the shaft, you can also visually inspect the blades to make sure they're ok...you might also take a look at the oil passages to make sure there isnt a big blob of oil coked up inside it...the main problem
you run into is old turbos with failing center bearings... G/box drop-
Jack the front up, drop the oil out of the gearbox and remove the lower arm bolts and the strut bolts, pull out the drive shafts from the gearbox....careful of the brake line....there is an extra bracket on the back of the block for the drivers side driveshaft.Remove the lower arm running from the front under the box and attached at
the back. Drop out all of the passengers side lower arm....this gives u abit more room to play with.
Remove the bits around the box, then just the main bolts. Unbolt the starter, but u dont need to take it right out.
Pull out box,a jack and a second person is handy when taking it out.
Exhausts-How big is too big ?
well most of us would
recomend 2.5"-3"
for our turbo Mazdas.
If you don't have
to do emissions then
start as close to
the turbo as possible
and remove the cat
converter. Make sure
you put a flex pipe
in because the forward
and backward rocking
of the motor will crack
the exhaust unless
it can flex some. For
the muffler get a
straight through design.
Cooking-clutch
We cooked the fluid during a long fast stage in the Targa, and the clutch pedal went all spongy. The gearbox housing generated so much heat and it transferred the heat to the slave cylinder and cooked the fluid. We now use Castrol SRF in the clutch line and we haven't had any probs since.Try that, and maybe try isolating the slave cylinder from the gearbox with a piece of hi temp plastic or leather to reduce the heat transferred to the slave cylinder.
More cooking-
The BG clutch problem turned out to be the master cylinder piston return. If the piston returns too far i.e. slave cylinder fluid return pushes the master piston back, but the spring behind the master piston makes it return even further. The pressure is upset and a spongy pedal results. The new seal kits have a plug for the end on the cylinder instead of a C clip. This prevents the piston from returning as far and helps seal dust.
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