REMOVING 180kph SPEED LIMITER
pull out your instrument cluster and look on the back for the screw marked 180 and remove it, it's as simple as that. There is also one marked 100 which when removed disables the annoying over 100km/h buzzer. Another way to do it is to pull apart your speedo, rotate the needle by hand to 180km/h and locate the contacts the meet at that point and remove them, simple!

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Brake upgrade for a BFMR.
1800cc GTX calipers bolt onto the factory position on the upright without modification and VR-4 rotor discs,which measure 266mm,should fit under the caliper once the hub has been turned down a bit so the disc will fit over the hub.
The wheel studs need to be removed and replace with longer ones to make up for the disc sitting over the hub.Mitzi Lancer EVO 5 studs can be used because the're the right size and cheap.
The correct caliper has "22" and "14V" moulded into it, and comes from the:
1990's Mazda Familia (323) GTX (1800cc Turbo)
1990's Ford Laser GTX (1800cc Turbo)
1990's Mazda Familia (323) GT (1800cc NA)
1990's Ford Laser TX3i (1800cc NA)

Adjusting AFM-AIR FLOW METER
If you tighten the spring tension it goes lean because the
flapper door cannot open as easy for a given amount of
air entering the AFM.Look closely at the ring with the
teeth on it, you will see a tang of spring steel on the right
side keeping the ring from turning. Use a small screwdriver
to hold the small tang away from the ring and turn the ring
the desired way.I have played with mine for a while and I
always go back to OEM setting.Make sure before you turn
the ring that you mark it with a permanent markerlike a
"vivid" where the OEM setting is otherwise you will never
get it back to OEM again. Most people say to go 4-6 teeth
different on the ring in the looser(richer) direction but I always
get a flat/bog sensation in Mid range when I mash the throttle.
Also there is a small air metering screw that can be accessed
but don't mess with it, just leave it alone unless someone has
already mucked with it and then screw it all the way in or no
more than one turn out. It can turn about 30 revolutions out and
bypasses too much air for smooth operation and idle.

Jade-o-metre:
we hooked up an adjustable boost system using a few lil things we picked up from good ol mitre 10..we just got this valve that was adjustable,a t-piece and some hose and ran it
into the cabin where the adjustor valve is,from the t-peice in the linebetween turbo and acuator.bleed valve off to suit,a boost guage is recommended.
simple!!

Cold one:
Quite a cool way of doing a ram pod air filter (in BG) is to remove the box and all the crap that goes with it. Then remove the radiator over flow tank (use a different bottle and put it over the other side of the car). This leaves a nice big area below the head light. Make a flage that will bolt onto the airflow metre then get a mandel bent tight 90 deg., 2.5" welded onto that. You should then be able to put a large cone filter onto the end.This gets the filter away from the hot air. Then cut the steel out infront of the filter. This system works well for me.